Day 26 - Over into the Tyrol
Thursday 4th August 2016
It is a time for farewells. Phillip and his boys are the first to leave, off for a last mountain walk before heading for home.
So I wind my way down and wave goodbye to
Stelvio. I stop in the pretty little town of Glurns for pasta and
orange juice at the hotel in the square.
Next over the gentle Reschenpass and into the Austrian Tyrol. I had thought to travel further east and do the much more spectacular Timmelsjoch but time is not on my side.
It is a time for farewells. Phillip and his boys are the first to leave, off for a last mountain walk before heading for home.
The
Buchers leave next. They are headed for Slovenia for the first time.
Roman and I have a chat about routes and I can recommend some places to
visit from my many trips in that part of the world.
I tell him about the great Kamp Koren and the 1st World War museum in Kobarid, the wonderful gorge near Bled with the tiny wooden footpath bridges, and the magnificent caves south of Ljubljana.
And then it's my turn to get on the road. This has been a great spot for camping and I met some fine people here.
My
first port of call is just 4km down the road. Roman suggested that I
take a look at a monastery church just down the road in Mustair.
This is St John's Abbey or more properly the Kloster der Benediktinerinnen St. Johann.
It has some famous old icons and wall paintings from the Middle Ages that have gained it world heritage status.
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| Swiss Family Bucher |
I tell him about the great Kamp Koren and the 1st World War museum in Kobarid, the wonderful gorge near Bled with the tiny wooden footpath bridges, and the magnificent caves south of Ljubljana.
And then it's my turn to get on the road. This has been a great spot for camping and I met some fine people here.
 |
| In the Mustair Valley |
This is St John's Abbey or more properly the Kloster der Benediktinerinnen St. Johann.
It has some famous old icons and wall paintings from the Middle Ages that have gained it world heritage status.
I park up opposite the
monastery and stroll inside. The tower, church and graveyard are
immaculately manicured and preserved as one might expect from the
Swiss.
Inside the church there is choral chanting
playing softly through a sound system. Partially restored wall paintings
peep through the newer plaster work on the nave walls.
I wander around for a while. There is a museum here but it appears to be closed. A few other tourists are around in the peaceful setting. It's very hot now in the sun so I take a few photographs and head for higher and cooler climes.
I wander around for a while. There is a museum here but it appears to be closed. A few other tourists are around in the peaceful setting. It's very hot now in the sun so I take a few photographs and head for higher and cooler climes.
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| The bell tower |
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| Daughter chapel in the grounds |
The run up to the Umbrail Trail over
Stelvio and down the east side is quite unnecessary for my route north
into Austria. The quickest route would be along the Mustair valley onto
the Reschenpass road.
But it would be a shame to be
here in this most beautiful part of the world and not take one last
look. Also I have been avoiding the eastern descent because frankly I
don't care for it so much.
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| Iconic Stelvio shot |
As I've said earlier there
is far too much traffic on Stelvio. Thousands of bikes, cycles, cars and
campers are turning it into the M25 of the Alps. The eastern ascent is
particularly tight on the hairpins and with so much traffic it is rare
to be able to swing wide on the right-handlers. The inside track on the
right-handers is very steep and bumpy and frankly not much fun.
Sometimes I have to stop to avoid a sports bike that has foolishly taken
the middle line leaving very little room. There are some right nutters
on here today.
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| Lunch in Glurns |
Next over the gentle Reschenpass and into the Austrian Tyrol. I had thought to travel further east and do the much more spectacular Timmelsjoch but time is not on my side.
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| On Sylvretta Strasse |
So I head for Landeck and turn west towards the
Sylvretta Strasse. This is a road I have read about and often thought I
should ride. It is a toll road over the mountains to nowhere in
particular and from the photographs looks pretty spectacular.
And
so it proves to be. The toll is €12 for a bike. The road climbs fairly
gently up to the first summit, then plunges down a valley before
climbing again up a higher peak. Then comes an incredible descent of
multiple hairpins down to the village of Partenen.
This is my destination for the night. The weather is changing, a big storm is forecast tonight followed by a day of heavy rain. I have decided to find a hotel and hole up for the duration of the bad weather.
In Partenen I find the Berghotel Sonne and it is exactly what I wanted to find. Typical Austrian neatness and a very welcoming staff. I am given a big comfortable room up in the eaves and soon settle in.
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| Sylvretta |
This is my destination for the night. The weather is changing, a big storm is forecast tonight followed by a day of heavy rain. I have decided to find a hotel and hole up for the duration of the bad weather.
In Partenen I find the Berghotel Sonne and it is exactly what I wanted to find. Typical Austrian neatness and a very welcoming staff. I am given a big comfortable room up in the eaves and soon settle in.
Weizenbier in the bar and grilled trout for dinner followed by Austria's favourite dessert, Apfelstrudel and custard. Lovely.
As the thunder rumbles, lightning flashes and the rains begin I settle in for a good night's sleep.
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| The Berghotel Sonne in Partenen |
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| Apfelstrudel indulgence |
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